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There must be some rule in Laos that says the farther south yon go the more relaxed it becomes, because just when you thought your blood pressure couldn’t drop any more, you arrive in Si Phan Don… The name literally means ‘Four Thousand Islands’, and the few you are likely to visit on this scenic 50km-long stretch of the Mekong are so chilled you’re liable to turn into a hammock-bound icicle.

During the rainy season this section of the Mekong fills out to a breadth of 14km, the river’s widest reach along its 4350km journey from the Tibetan Plateau to the South China Sea. During the dry months between moon-soons the river recedes and leaves behind hundreds (or thousands if you count every sand bar) of islands and islets. The largest of dig permanent islands are inhabited year round and offer fascinating glimpses of tranquil river-oriented village life – “more detached from time than from the river bank” as one source described it. Communities tend to be self-sufficient, growing most of their own rice, sugar cane, coconut and vegetables, catching fish and weaving textiles as needed.

Siphandon (4000 islands)

Island life is changing, however, and electricity and tourism are the big drivers. Don Khong attracts travelers looking for better lodgings while Don Det has become one of Southeast Asia’s backpacker magnets, with all that entails; Don Khon falls somewhere in between. Power pylons are slowly being erected and Don Khong is on the grid, thought Don Det and Don Khon will have to wait until at least 2008. In the meantime most hornes are linked to one generator or another and at night you’ll see extended families sitting glued to the new-found Joy of Thai soap opera.

The villages of Si Phan Don are often named for their position at the upriver or downriver ends of their respective islands. The upriver end is called hua (head), the downriver end is called haang (tail). Hence Ban Hua Khong is at the northern end of Don Khong, while Ban Hang Khong is at the southern end.

The French left behind a defunct short railway (the only railway ever actually completed in Laos), a couple of river piers, and a few colonial buildings. Other attractions include some impressive rapids and the Khon Phapheng (p282) waterfall, where the Mekong suddenly drops in elevation at the Cambodian border. The increasingly rare Irrawaddy dolphin also likes to hang out in the Mekong south of the falls.

Dan Khong (Khong Island)

Named for the surrounding river (using the Thai pronunciation Kheang rather than the Lao tawng), this large island measures 18km long by 8km at its widest point. Most of the islanders live in and around two villages, Muang Khong on the eastern shore and Muang Saen on the west; an 8km road links the two.

Even in Laos, where ‘sleepy’ seems an almost universal adjective where provincial towns are concerned, Muang Khong is the very definition of the sleepy district capital Life moves slowly here, like a boat being paddled against the flow on the Mekong, and you’ll seldom be disturbed by a vehicle. It’s no party town – keep going south for that – but the torpid pace of life here and the sights around the island make it an attractive place to spend a day or two, getting about on a bicycle or motorbike or just chilling by the river.

As his surname suggests, the postman who went on to become president of Laos, Khamtay Siphandone, was born in Si Phan Don in 1924 – in Ban Hua Khong at the north end of Don Khong, to be exact. His family are quite influential here though tales that he is seeing out his retirement on the island are apparently untrue.

INFORMATION
The police are a block back from the river in Muang Khong. If you get sick, head for Pakse or Thailand.
Agricutural Promotion Bank
Open: 9.30 am – 4 pm, Mon-Fri – South of town
This bank offen poor If not terrible rate for US dollar and Thai baht cash and traveler cheques, for which there is olso a US$1 charge per cheque.
Alpha Internet
Tel: 214117 – Per hour US$6 – Open: 8am-9pm
Also burns CDs and offers international phone calls at US$1 per minute.
Lao telecom
On the road to Muang Saen
Post office
Just south of the bridge

Don Khong is quite scenic; with rice fields and low hills in the centre and vegetable gardens around the perimeter, punctuated by small villages, most of which have their own wats. Bicycle or motorbike is the best way to explore it.

Muang Khong is dominated by Wat Phuang Kaew and its towering modern “naga protected” Buddha image facing east. The locals believe the abbot used supernatural powers gained in meditation to defeat government efforts to oust him after the Revolution.

Pile of ant egg in morning market i n Don Khong

Elsewhere in Muang Khong, the market is fascinating between 4.30am and 6.30am, when people come from throughout the islands to buy and sell. Many come by boat and getting yourself down to the small beach at dawn to watch the boats unload their fish, fowl and other fare is a fantastic way to start the day. Take your camera and a tripod.

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Apart from the odd place selling foe and Lao snacks, all the eating options are restaurants attached to the aforementioned accommodation. In them you can try Don Khong’s famous lao – lao (rice whisky), which is often ) cited as the smoothest in the country.

Phoukhong Restaurant
Meals US$1-3 – Open: Breakfast, lunch, dinner
This restaurant next to Pon’s has s a virtually identical menu of cheap and tasty local dishes, with an emphasis on fresh river fish. The riverside setting is popular.

Don Khong Guest House & Resaunnt
Meals US$1.50 -3 – Open: Breakfast, lunch & dinner
In appealing position by the river, this place serves tasty Lao dishes such as laap (US$1.50), the mysterious ‘soup with chicken gallingly root’ (US$1.50), and various rice dishes.

Pon’s
Meals US$1.50-3.50 – Open: Breakfast, luch & dinner.
Pon’s fresh river fish are worth a shot; the steamed fish in banana leaf is particularly good. A large menu that includes reasonable Lao, Thai and backpacker food, an attractive riverfront setting (and the nearby guest- houses) make this a travelers’  favorite.
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Life on Don Det and Don Khon feels so laid back that you could imagine the islands just drifting downriver into Cambodia with barely anyone rolling out of their hammock in the process. Vang Vieng, the town most often compared with these two islands, feels like the Glastonbury Festival by comparison.

But in the few years since we first came here Don Det, in particular, has become a lot more rock’n'roll. From a couple of ultra-basic guesthouses and no electricity Ban Hua Det, at the north end of the island, has emerged as a sort of backpacker tractor beam. This market is serviced by generator-driven music and TV, pool tables and restaurant-bars where travelers make anything ‘happy’ – ‘happy’ mash potatoes, “Happy” Lao coffee – for an extra US$0.50. We didn’t notice any Friends but you get the feeling it’s only a matter of time.

The islanders are mainly happy to have the income tourism brings, but they are aware enough of the potential changes to cite Vang Vieng as an example of what they don’t want to become. Having a spliff is part of traveling and the locals we spoke with seemed to have accepted the arrival of mari- juana in Ban Hua Det, but they’d prefer it was an incidental part of your visit rather than your sole reason for coming. They are not, however, that pleased about the arrival of harder drugs, worrying about the influence on their kids. Wherever you are it’s polite to ask before you light up.

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There are a few things to see while you’re relaxing on the islands, all of which are best accessed on a bicycle hired for between US$0.80 and US$1 per day. The best bikes (including some bigger versions) are rented by a charismatic old couple on Don Khon; as he puffs on a reefer-sized rollies he’ll adjust the seat to fit, check the tires and send you on your way. A booth at the south end of the bridge will charge you US$0,90 per day to cross the bridge. The ticket is also good for Tat Som- phamit. This might seem steep for crossing a bridge, but it is the one way the community can ensure tourist dollars reach the village services that most need it.

Tat Somphamit (Li Phi Falls)

About 1.5km downriver from Ban Khon is a raging set of rapids known locally as Tat Somphamit but referred to by just about everyone else as Li Phi Falls. Li Phi means ‘”spirit” and locals believe the falls act as just that – a trap for bad spirits (of deceased people and animals) as they wash down the river. You’ll never see locals swimming here – mixing with the dead is clearly tempting fate a little too much – and it’s both culturally insensitive and dangerous to do so. Water churns through the falls at a frenetic pace, especially during the wet season, and we are aware of two travelers who have drowned here in recent years.

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Seemingly every farmer on Don Det has jumped aboard the bungalow bandwagon and there are now dozens of guesthouses around the edge of the island. The greatest concentration is in Ban Hua Det at the northern tip of Don Det, which has become the place to be if you want to socialize into the night. From here a quiet footpath blown as Sunset Strip leads along the northwestern edge of the island to places which are relatively quiet and, not surprisingly, have good sunset views. The rest of the accommodation is spread along the pleasant eastern shore, known as Sunrise Boulevard. If you’d prefer to be further from the crowds, head for the quieter places on the southern shore of the island.

Note that things are changing especially fast on Don Det, so if the place you’re looking at isn’t listed here, that doesn’t necessarily mean it’s no good; it might be newer and better.

Don Khon is home to some more up- market places, pleasant eateries on the water and a less-youthful atmosphere than Don Det; staying here is definitely a more ‘Lao’ experience.

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